- How do I know whether I have plaster or drywall?
- Press a thumbtack somewhere hidden. Drywall accepts it easily; plaster resists and tends to chip. Given that close to 45% of Milwaukee's housing predates 1950, plaster is the more likely answer in much of the city. A third possibility is common here too — thin board installed over failing plaster years ago, which feels like drywall from the surface but behaves like neither once it's cut.
- Is plaster worth saving, or should it all be replaced with drywall?
- Plaster that is still keyed to its lath is harder, more sound-deadening, and often flatter than new board, and it is usually worth patching and skim-coating. Replacement makes sense where the keys have already broken loose across a large area, or where a remodel is opening the wall anyway. The way to tell is pressure — plaster that flexes or sounds hollow underfoot of a hand has already let go behind the surface.
- My ceiling has a small crack. Why was the estimate so much larger than the crack?
- Because on a plaster ceiling the visible crack is rarely the whole failure. When plaster loses its keys above the lath, a section sags and the crack is just where it finally showed. Pricing only the visible line would mean coming back. That is why the assessment happens before the number and why the estimate says where scope may move.
- Does work on a duplex wall need anything special?
- Yes. The assembly separating two units carries fire-resistance and sound requirements that a wall inside a single-family home does not. Opening one up means putting back something that still performs, which can change materials, layer count, and how penetrations are handled. It is worth raising at the walkthrough rather than after demolition.
- What does the free estimate include?
- An in-person walkthrough and a written, itemized number covering material, labor, and finish level — plus a plain statement of where an older building could change the scope once a wall is opened.